Astilbe x arendsii 'Rivularis'

Grown in Yorkshire.

Although we are probably best known for our roses and fruit trees, we have always grown a wide range of herbaceous perennials and are delighted to start to offer some of our extensive selection for sale via the website.

Herbaceous perennials - defined as leafy, soft-stemmed plants, where the top growth dies back over winter. They are longer-lived than annuals or biennials (so at least three years), but don't produce a woody branch structure which persists over winter (as opposed to shrubs). Herbaceous perennials form the backbone of many garden borders, as they provide some of the best displays of flower and colour of any garden plant, and are the undoubted stars of the summer garden. Beds devoted solely to herbaceous perennials are a stunning sight through late spring and summer, but care needs to be taken in choosing varieties which extend the flowering season as much as possible, otherwise the border can look empty for 6 months of the year. Generally they are mixed with other plants such as shrubs, trees and bulbs, or combine them with grasses for a prairie-style planting.

As herbaceous perennials come in all shapes and sizes, and thrive in a wide range of conditions, choosing the right one for you is important. Use the size, form and aspect filters to narrow down your choice.

Planting.

Most herbaceous plants prefer an open position in moist, but free-draining soil. If planting in the border, prepare the ground well by digging over, removing and perennial weeds, and incorporate some organic matter back into the soil. Dig a good-sized hole, approx twice as big as the container the plant arrived in, plant to the same level it is growing in the pot, and water well. Even plants that thrive in hot dry conditions will need regular watering until established.
Some herbaceous need plenty of space - be sure to refer to the ultimate size and spread given for each variety, and plant accordingly. They will quickly spread, and you can increase clumps in a small number of years by lifting and dividing in autumn.
Probably the best times for planting are in autumn, to allow the roots to become established before winter, or else in early spring as the roots are becoming active. As a rule of thumb, plants which prefer drier conditions (achillea, lavender and nepeta for example) do best when planted in spring so they aren't sitting in wet soil through the first winter before they have made new root growth. Herbaceous perennials which prefer damper conditions (e.g. astilbe, pulmonaria and persicaria) will be happy planted anytime from autumn through to spring.

Maintenance.

All newly planted perennials should be kept well-watered during their first year. Longer-term, correct soil preparation and an annual mulch of leaf mould, shredded bark, leaves or even gravel will keep the roots moist and cool and even out temperature fluctuations.

Whilst most herbaceous perennials will get all the nutrients they need from the soil, it is advisable to feed once a year in spring. A slow-release balanced fertiliser such as Blood, Fish and Bone, or Growmore is ideal, and will help promote fresh new growth and plenty of flower. Dont be tempted to over-feed - overfeeding can inhibit flower production.

Pruning. Don't be too tidy! Traditionally, herbaceous perennials would be cut back to soil level after the first frost had blackened the foliage. If you can bear it, leave the old stems on the plant through the winter, not only do they help protect the crowen of the plant, but they also provide excellent habitat for over wintering insects. Some varieties can also look quite decorative through the winter, especially where faded flower heads remain. However in early spring it is a good idea to tidy away all the dead leaves, using sharp secateurs or garden scissors, to allow space for the new foliage to emerge.

Chelsea chop. You may have heard of this traditional technique for extending the flowering season. Quite simply, you cut back some of the new growth on perennials by about 50%, around the end of May (the time when the Chelsea Flower Show is held). This then delays the flowering for 6-8 weeks while the plant regrows. You can use it either within individual clumps (cut back every other stem and leave the others untouched), or in groups within a border (say if you have several plants all flowering in June and nothing later in the summer). It's an excellent way to spread the flowering period out and extend the season of interest.

Recyclable plastic.

For our larger sizes, we use 2 and 3 litre Aeroplas taupe pots. These pots are made from recycled polypropylene and are carbon black pigment free, so are kerbside recyclable. Our P9 size is a small 9cm square black plastic pot, perfect as a starter plant or for potting on.

Peat-free compost.

Our compost is a top-quality professional peat-free blend supplied by Melcourt – consistently voted the best peat-free compost in trials by Which? Magazine. It includes a slow-release fertiliser which will last until mid-summer.

Email our highly skilled team with any questions and we will be only too happy to try and help sales@rvroger.co.uk